http://www.lookingfit.com/blogs/guest/2011/08/avoid-patchy-fading-w-sunless.aspx
By Michele Major & Lori Reiss
“Why is my sunless tan fading patchy?” Before addressing this question, it’s important to understand how the browning affect takes place with solution. The active ingredient in sunless dihydroxyacetone solution (DHA) works with the amino acids on the skin and air to create the brown appearance.
Example: If you take a bite out of an apple and leave it for a while, the acids in the apple combine with air to create a natural reaction, resulting in a browning affect. This reaction is similar to what takes place with the DHA, air and the amino acids on your client’s skin. The solution absorbs into the skin cells and the air activates the solution, creating the appearance of a tan.
Skin preparation and application technique will determine the end result. There are a few scenarios a technician can explore if their client complains of patchy fading:
1. The client did not properly prepare for their airbrush . The purpose of exfoliating prior to a sunless session is to remove the loose dead skin cells that naturally shed from the body. If solution is applied on these loose cells, the sunless tan will shed off pre-maturely in those areas, leaving a patchy result.
How to properly exfoliate: Keep it simple. We recommend using a regular-ole washcloth and bar soap to exfoliate the skin. The fibers found in most washcloths are perfect to loosen and gently remove tired, dry skin. Choose a soap that does not leave a residue.
A note about scrubs and poufs : Scrubs generally contain moisturizers that leave a film residue. This may prevent the solution from penetrating. In addition, the granules found in many scrubs can damage healthy skin. Shower poufs, while they seem like they are exfoliating the skin, are not. They are made with plastic webbing that, while it feels like it is exfoliating the skin, is not doing it evenly.
2. The client did not properly hydrate their sunless tan. A lack of moisture in the skin due to skin conditions or dry air (generally found in the winter months) can cause uneven shedding of the skin. To minimize this natural occurrence, moisturize the skin with the recommended moisturizer. The client’s favorite lotion may not be the remedy. Just because a lotion is free from mineral- or petroleum-oil based ingredients, doesn’t mean that it’s the right moisturizing system to maintain a sunless tan. Make sure you send every client home with a moisturizer that’s purpose is to be used with sunless tans.
3. The technician applied too much solution. The over-application of a sunless solution is often the culprit for uneven fading. The solution needs air to react with the skin. By over-spraying the client, the air cannot penetrate through the solution to react with the skin. The solution must be applied in light, even strokes.
4. The technician applied solution on an existing sunless tan. Other than piggyback applications to add depth to your color, you should never apply sunless solution on top of an existing sunless tan. The skin must be clean and free from previous sunless residue. Leftover airbrush from previous sessions will have noticeably darker patches, resulting in uneven fading.
5. The technician used too deep a color. Skin cells shed at different times. If the color is too dark for the client’s natural skin tone, the fading will be more prominent. The fading will appear patchy. Always assess your client’s skin tone and use the proper color. If a client insists on the darkest possible color, you should set realistic expectations on how their tan will fade.
Another notable reason for patchy fading can be the use of deodorant, makeup, perfume, lotions and powders prior to a sunless application. These substances will prevent the sunless solution from absorbing evenly. Exfoliating, sweating, rubbing or excessive exposure to liquids (swimming, exercising, etc.) may also result in patchy fading.
As with everything else, moderation is the key. Often our desire for perfection leads us down a path of excess. In this instance, excessive sunless application will create the opposite of perfection. Skin is always shedding. This process is random. If the skin is over-treated with solution or has been reapplied too frequently, the shedding becomes more obvious.
Beauty is not a new concept to Michele Major and Lori Reiss, the co-creators of Sol Potion®. Their 26-year friendship and desire for a beautiful sunless tan helped them to develop a business with a solid purpose: offering a product that salons and spas will love to use and their clients will love the result. Sol Potion® offers customized sunless tanning solutions for both professional and personal use. The company creates, sells and supports a complete turnkey solution that includes sunless tanning products, a skincare line, training and customer support to the tanning and beauty industry. To learn more, visit www.solpotion.com ; to contact a representative directly, e-mail sales@solpotion.com. To watch their videos on You Tube, visit www.youtube.com/solpotion.
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